So you have your car, you have all the parts, now you want to actually do the work. Expect it to take between one and two days to make a nice job of it.

If you speak to an auto-electrician or an American car specialist, they will tell you how they solder and shrink seal joints where they cut into the wiring. This is the best method of course, and superior to scotch-locks but you have probably been joining bits of wire to other bits of wire for years so use whatever technique you are happy with.

So you are using the cars original feeds from the existing lights only to switch relays here. So a spur off your front indicators will switch the relays to work the back indicators. (And maybe the repeaters too) Use a feed off a dipped headlamp live to switch the foglight relay and use the feed from the high level brake light in the boot lid to switch the brake light relay. So you need a live next, it doesn't really matter if it is a battery or ignition live. Straight from the battery is safest I think, not forgetting to run it through a suitable fuse first of course.

This battery live will power all your lights and be split and routed through the relays accordingly. A general relay diagram is opposite. Where you site them is your choice, most people use the boot area near the spare wheel well, some put the fog light one and/or others under the bonnet.

Drill a hole and site the fog lamp switch next to the main headlamp switch or nearby according to your taste. (As long as you can see it from the drivers' seat.) An example is in the picture opposite. Take the dipped headlamp feed live through the switch first and then to the relay, this way the foglight will only work when the dipped headlights are on as a regular installation. If you have a V8, you can use the existing fog light switch and re-route the wires that feed the front spot lights.

When you plug in your new Euro back lights, the reverse light will work anyway, there are plugs in the box - with them you can wire up to your new feeds so they plug on the appropriate lights, they are labelled so it is not rocket science. The old brake/indicator light feeds are dealt with by the Euro lights, if you use modified lights you will need to put in resistors to slow the indicator flashers down and make the SJB think it is still doing the same job as before. Remember to fit your back EMF protection diodes, and be aware that it is imperative they are fitted the correct way round first time. If in doubt, seek advice on this.

Time to take the headlamps out. The front bumper cover needs to come off - its only a few bolts. (Picture opposite.) If you choose to drill the headlights and insert a sidelight, take them out and do it slowly, upside down with an assistant nearby holding a vacuum cleaner tube next to the bulb hole. If you dont, you will fill the headlight with white plastic swarf which is hard to remove. If you are using 'Angel Eyes' you just swap them over. Use the feed from the original orange sidelight in the front bumper (that you should disconnect anyway for SVA) to power your new sidelights.

And thats about it! The next thing you should do is use the plastic ducting you bought to enclose any wires out of the way, so it looks like a proper job. Tape and/or cable tie all new wires at 300mm intervals anywhere an inspector may see them - boot, under bonnet and above pedals. This is part of the SVA test so hide them well, he told me they should look like the maufacturer did it. So no spaghetti junctions, visible scotch-locks or cock-ups! Everything else other than lights on the S197 Mustang should fly through a UK SVA test without difficulty, even at the notoriously pedantic Manchester Chadderton VOSA.